Traveling with Judy

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  • On to El Cafate

    Sunday, 11/23

    Left Torres del Paine on this 21st day of traveling. Rode by bus with sightseeing stops along the way. A passport check leaving Chile into Argentina. Again, this required a bus, driver & local guide change. Lots of moving parts. On to El Calafate for our last 3 nights.

    First major activity on Monday was a Patagonian ranch visit, where we learned about the gaucho lifestyle & experienced a delicious barbecue lunch.

    On Tuesday, a full day excursion to Los Glaciares National Park where we visited Perito Moreno Glacier. After returning from the Glacier, Marta gathered us together for our farewell debriefing. We shared our most memorable experiences, & enjoyed an 18 minute film Marta created of our days together; multi-talented Marta, a master of making our trip so special.

    Lastly, our farewell dinner before the flight back to Buenos Aires on Wednesday morning. Then off to the international airport for an overnight flight to Miami then finally Wheaton. No Thanksgiving for turkey for me this year.

    Ventricular cloud found in the sky of Torres del Paine. Looks like a UFO, at least in my imagination. Saw this as we were departing the park.
    Ranger station stop where Poncho explained how the mountains were formed millions of years ago. Lovely setting!!!
    Cazuala, chicken stew, at Cerro Castillo, with Pisco Sour, bread & pebre (salsa). Stew consisted of chicken, squash, potatoes & very delicious broth. Sunday’s lunch on the way to El Calafate, Argentina. Long bus ride in a big bus, so plenty of elbow room. Needed to pass through immigration to get out of Chile & again to get into Argentina. Easy & fast.
    Arrive at Estancia Bon-Accord, a working ranch. Became part of the ranch crew with a beret & a scarf.
    Our host & the chef of the ranch. Gerardo is the owner of Estancia Bon-Accord. Today, he shared his Scottish ancestral heritage with us. Ancestors came to Patagonia late 19th century to basically homestead this rugged landscape. Water scarce, grass tough, so sheep were about the only animals they could raise. He is the last of his lineage, but he is trying to keep the ranch functioning. Tough, tough life.
    Lamb being cooked with a fire using Calafate wood. Takes about 3 hours for the lamb to be done.
    Waiting for our history lesson from Gerardo. Enjoying coffee & homemade bread. From left: Chris, Rachel, Pip, Connie, Amy, Soosie, Jill, Stan. In the home of Gerardo.
    Marta & Gerardo sharing a Mate. Pass to one another to drink the Mate, a social ritual, until one says gracias. In this case, Marta finished first. Yes, they do share the metal straw.
    Gerardo demonstrates hand shearing which is not done anymore, except around the eyes.
    Today’s lunch: Roast lamb, potatoes, squash, red peppers, onions & Malbec. Began with a pickled hare dish & ended with a caramel stuffed cookie. All so extra yummy. Will need to intermittent fast when I get home.
    Marta’s protector from the wind, Gori, our local guide, from El Calafate.
    Gaucho’s lasso.
    Chopping the tomatoes for the best salsa ever. Have had it multiple times.
    Perito Moreno Glacier from afar.
    Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciers National Park which towers nearly 200 feet above Lake Argentino.
    Cloudy day to visit the Glacier, but we were not disappointed as we did see calving of Perito Moreno.
    Portion of the glacier emerging.
    Resembles a torpedo as it emerged from the water, taking a giant burp.
    Glacier Perito Moreno National Park, 11/25, our last adventurous hurrah in Patagonia.
    Gabriel hosted us for our farewell dinner. Started with very thick vegetable soup, then Osso Buco, finished with Crepe Dulce Leche. Gabriel could easily be on a comedy stage. Had us laughing as he told his story & answered our questions. A terrific way to end a fabulous trip. His house was a feast for the eyes. Most eclectic.
    He came to say goodnight outside my window at the Kay Yatun Hotel during my last night in El Calafate. Quite the send off.

    As you might have gathered from my posts, this has been another favorite trip. How fortunate for me to have so many favorites, but I must say, South America holds a special place in my heart, next to Africa.

    Plan on hearing from me in March, and again, thanks for traveling with me.

    November 26, 2025

  • Destination: Torres del Paine

    Started our morning, Friday 11/21, at the tip of South America in Puerto Arenas. Spent the day traveling by bus, with stops of course, to our destination for the next 2 nights: the park of Torres del Paine & Lago Grey. Along the way, we experienced life on the Patagonian steppes, saw wildlife, and otherworldly beauty. I have been to many breathtaking spots in the world, but nothing quite as dramatic as Torres del Paine.

    This is where my tootsies are on Thursday, 11/20; the tip of South America. Two plus weeks ago, I was on RAPA Nui, 2500 miles from nowhere. WOW.
    Puerto Arenas on Thursday night at 10 pm. Taken from my 3rd floor hotel room. Dwelling was a former mansion converted to a hotel.
    Partly cloudy today on our long bus ride through Patagonia Steppes to Torres del Paine National Park. Large sheep stations, estancias, along the way. Had lamb last night for dinner; delicious.
    Gaucho probably going to attend to his sheep. Lonely existence in the Patagonian Steppe.
    Nandu, the Rhea, on side of road traveling to Torres del Paine.
    Guanacos on the side of the road. Camelids or part of the camel family. Similar to a llama & native to the Patagonian steppe. Protected.
    Poncho, our local guide, teaching us about the history of the area.

    As we approach Torres del Paine.

    No explanation necessary.

    Glacier Grey in Torres del Paine. This view outside of our lodge, Lago Grey.

    Paine Mountain Range. “Nature is a book, we just need to learn how to read it.” So says Poncho. A Saturday morning stop before we start our hike in Torres del Paine.
    Paine Grande 10,000 ft.
    Mirador Salto Grande, first stop on today’s hike, Saturday.
    Four of the RAPA Nui 5. Jill decided to stay at the lodge today.
    Fire bushes, spring bloom. November best time to visit the park. Lots of blooming plants & bushes, just like the desert blooms in our spring.
    Fire art. Lots of dead tress because of past fires.
    How’s this for a stunning view, one of many, on today’s hike,

    Mirror Lake.

    Looks like I am traveling alone, but it is a deception.
    Last shot before returning to the bus for the trip back to the lodge for a bit of R&R.
    Spartans on a quest to conquer the wind. Saturday afternoon’s last hike of the day.
    Battling the wind.
    Poncho is multi talented. Such a fun evening of song & dance. Marta plans the most entertaining activities, & really enjoys herself. Excellent tour leader. Yea OAT, you know how to pick them!

    Thanks to Starlink, I was able to complete this post at the Lago Grey. Guess Elon Musk is good for something. Now on to El Calafate where more adventures await.

    November 23, 2025

  • Chiloe Island

    Tuesday, 11/18

    Left Puerto Vargas at a reasonable time; no crack of dawn departure. Moderate bus ride to the ferry for a 30 minute ride to Chiloe Island. Chiloe consists of an archipelago located at the southern end of the Lake District of Chile. It is the largest of some 40 islands 40 located between the Pacific & the Andes.

    We knew we were visiting the Punihuil Wildlife Reserve when we arrived, but little did I know the wildlife would be from the sea. What a great way to wet my whistle for my trip to Antartica in February of 2027.

    Bridge that is going nowhere. Is supposed to link the island of Chiloe to the mainland. Conceived in the 90’s; started building in early 2000’s. Still a fantasy.
    Our guide, Barry, calls his country a 3rd world country as nothing gets accomplished. Can’t take away from the beauty of the water, however.
    Bus/passenger carrying ferry like this one transported us to Chiloe Island. Took only 30 minutes.
    Looking at the Island of Chiloe, place of seagulls. Will be taking the ferry again on Thursday to eventually make our way to Puerto Monty Airport for our flight to Punta Arenas. I’m racking up the Delta FF miles.
    “Dingy” to get us to the boat to see the sea-life on Penihuil Wildlife Preserve, which is located on the Pacific Ocean.
    Docking. What an efficient way to get us to the sightseeing boat. Who said that Chile is a 3rd world country?
    Magellanic Penguins out for a stroll.
    Humboldt Penguin taking its time getting into the water
    Finally made the leap. Really blends into the landscape which certainly helps with anonymity.
    Nature made bridge. Probably created by a tsunami during one of the many earthquakes.
    Sea Lion sunning on the rocks at Puñihuil Wildlife Preserve. Big yawn which is sometimes how I feel after a full day of exploring.
    Magellanic Penguin. Aren’t I beautiful!!!
    Humboldt Penguin, competing for most beautiful.
    After our wildlife happy time, we visited the Church of Your Lady of Nercon. Dates from 1880’s, all wooden including the statues & columns. Has withstood many earthquakes. UNESCO World Heritage site. Built in the shape of a boat. We were able to go up to the roof area to see how the church was constructed.
    Nighttime view from my hotel room in Castro. Reflection of village lights in the water. Low & high tide occurs 6 times a day.

    On Wednesday, we had another luxuriously lazy morning, departing at 8:45. Stopped along the waterfront of Castro, the capital of Chiloe Island. Many of us travelers dropped off stinky clothes at the local laundry & then viewed the houses on stilts before making our way to Rilan for A Day in the Life. Here we met Ilsa & Raul who welcomed us with tea/coffee & bread right out of the oven. Then it was off to the fogan, a covered outdoor structure, for an introduction as to how Ilsa & Raul conduct their daily lives, patterned after how their ancestors lived. After this introductory lesson, we rolled up our shirt sleeves to help prepare the Curanto, a typical Chiloean stew.

    Stew ingredients: mussels, chicken, sausage, pork, milcaos (potato pancakes), chochoca (potato dough) both filled with finely chopped pork. This pot of deliciousness was topped with wine, water & large leaves from the garden. While this was stew was cooking for an hour over an open fire, we walked the farm with Raul & learned more about his many daily jobs.

    This was a day of experiencing with limited picture taking.

    These colorful wooden homes, Palafitos, built along the seashore on the Island of Chiloe to avoid the spongy wet marshlands.
    Ilse & Raul’s property stretches to the sea. Such a serene spot.
    Our hosts for A Day in the Life, Ilse & Raul. Another special day made so by this extraordinary couple. She weaves her own yarn sheared from their sheep, weaves baskets using the bark of the their trees, sews & cooks a delicious meal.
    Raul is a farmer, carpenter, miller, sculptor & terrific story teller. All of their daily activities, which are numerous, have evolved from their ancestors. How fortunate for us to enjoy this experience on their farm as who knows how long they will be able to host; but most importantly, who will continue these traditions.
    Used these leaves in the Curanto. Torn into smaller pieces, of course.
    Jill was the winner of the Chilean version of Cornhole, our last activity before enjoying our delicious lunch. She is also enjoying a Pisco Sour.
    Boat anchor. Wood instead of metal has the Chilote believe metal contaminates the sea.
    Welcome back to your hotel room says Mother Nature.

    So much to share, but perhaps this blog has gone on just a bit too long.

    November 20, 2025

  • Puerto Varas, Chile

    Left Bariloche, Argentina & made our way to Chile where we stayed for two nights In Puerto Varas deep within Chile’s Lake District. Views of snowcapped peaks, jagged rock towers & freshwater lakes. No time to get stir crazy on the bus.

    Ibis saying goodbye to us as we were leaving Bariloche on Sunday morning.
    Today’s ride: Sunday, 11/16. Bariloche to Puerto Varas. Immigration at both the Argentina border & the Chilean border easy, so our bus ride was not as long as anticipated. Quite enjoyable actually. Changed buses, local guide & driver once we reached Chile. Now in a 26 passenger bus.
    Volcano in Chile. Can’t ever remember the names of any of the 1200+ volcanoes, but can enjoy the majesty of them.
    Just left Argentina.
    Fox on HWY 215; just left Argentina, approaching Chile border control. This one is used to travelers, so not hesitant to stand on the side of the road. Marta calls us travelers, not tourists.
    Destruction of the trees because of the last volcanic eruption, but regrowth happening.
    Today’s destination, Puerto Varas. Marta pointing the way.
    Had lunch at this most out of the way cafeteria. Farmer opens his house to groups like ours: salad, chicken, strawberries, water.
    Our lunch stop also included the car collection of the farmer. An entire barn of Studebakers. Other cars & collections in another room of the barn. Had to rush through the museum because Sunday was Election Day in Chile, & nothing is supposed to be open. Mandatory voting in Chile.
    Reached our destination: Puerto Vargas. Osorno Volcano. View from our hotel.
    Licarayen on the lakeshore in Puerta Varas who is embracing Osorno Volcano. A legend about Licarayen dating from the ancient peoples, but too lengthy to explain. Charming little resort town, & our stay for the next two nights.
    Attentive Tom. These are the varieties of Pisco used in this bar. Waqar, 4th one, the best, but our Pisco Sours were made from the last one; house brand. Pisco Sours can be lethal. Very tasty, & go down easy.
    Learning how to make Pisco Sours from the bartender at the hotel. Twelve varieties of Pisco grapes grown in Chile & Peru. Big debate concerning which country makes the best Pisco Sours.
    Lovely walkway into our restaurant on Sunday night in Puerto Varas. Delicious seafood spot. Beautiful springtime in Chile.
    Central American Agouti, smallest reindeer in world. Rarely seen on side of road.
    Monday’s visit. The 1st national Park of Chile. Influenced by Teddy Roosevelt to create national parks in Chile. Our 1st rainy day of the trip, but we persevered.
    Vincente Perez Rosales National Park has been shaped by ancient glaciers & volcanic eruptions.
    The park’s waterfall. Not a gigantic one, but still impressive.

    Mirror like lakes inside the park.

    OAT, the tour company, plans a home hosted meal every trip. Here 6 of us were hosted by Jacquline & Edwardo. We started with empanadas we each made, then moved on to a typical Chilean stew & blueberry kuchen for desert.
    Edwardo & Jacqueline our delightful hosts. Good food, Chilean wine, Music but most importantly, great company.
    We started with the cheese empanada we each made. Not very pretty, but tasty.

    On the road again today, Tuesday. Taking a ferry to Chiloe Island for more exploring & learning.

    November 18, 2025

  • Bariloche, Argentina

    Flew from Buenos Aires to Barlioche on Thursday morning. Bariloche is a beautiful lakeside city nestled in the foothills of the Andes. It is situated along the banks of the 40 mile long Lake Nahuel Huapi & is a gateway to Patagonia’s Lake District. It is both a summer & winter getaway very much like the ski resorts in Colorado having very much an alpine feel, hence its nickname “Little Switzerland.

    Interesting sculpture of Mary in front of this charming Catholic Church. There are many of German descent in Bariloche. Began to come here in the mid 1800’s & continued to do so until after WW11. In fact, we had a lecture on Friday by a German educator who spoke of Nazi war criminals escaping to Argentina as well as many other countries & being protected. Most interesting.
    Morning view of Andes from our hotel in Bariloche. Huinid Bustillos which sounds like We Need.
    Getting ready to board the chairlift to go to the top of Campanario Hill. It’s late Spring here so everything is in full bloom.
    Chairlift to the lookout point.
    From lookout point after reaching the top of the chairlift. The beautiful Andes with glacier made lakes.
    The Andes from another view. Pictures hardly do the beauty justice.
    So fortunate to be here among all of this beauty.
    Learning about the flora & fauna from Lettie. Amazing how much these young local guides know, & how well they communicate in English. Command of the language so impressive.
    Forest walk only to come upon Lago Escondido (Hidden Lake).
    Another lake & Mountain View, this one from our rocky hike.
    Amy & I enjoying the view during our hike.
    Marta with a treat of chocolate covered raspberries before we headed back to the trailhead/beach. Quite a challenging rocky hike. Marta is a terrific tour leader who is just so much fun. Bariloche is the chocolate capital of Argentina. Chocolate shops abound.
    Recreational beach area. Several individuals chose not to join us on the hike, so they collected sea glass. BTW, there are 14 of us traveling together.
    Another beautiful lookout point. Famous hotel in the distance, & no we did not stay there. Would have taken a Tauck tour to experience such a stay.
    Gilbert Brewery where we sampled four different kinds of beer & had a boar stew lunch w/pumpkin soup starter. The brewmaster gave our group a short lecture on the beer making process. Little hole in the wall brewery that brews beer for the restaurant only. Beer & wine are big industries in Argentina.
    Started our very busy Saturday with a lecture called First Hand Testimony “Mapuche People”. This gentleman is a Mapuche who told his story in Spanish & Marta translated. Mapuche are the native people of Argentina, & he talked about their struggles then & now. Found it most interesting that his father was Mapuche & his mother was a captured white woman who considers herself a Mapuche because she was raised in their culture. Loved this lecture as it was so similar to the American Indian story.
    We then arrived at a horse ranch where the first order of business was learning how to make & drink Mate, a South American drink since way back when. There is a social ritual to the making & drink that would require too many paragraphs. Will say, it is definitely an acquired taste.
    Drinking of Mate in its special cup & metal tube. Am I really sharing this picture????? Oh well, have to demonstrate how it is ENJOYED.
    Our next adventure was a horseback ride through the steppe before having a barbecue lunch.
    Barbecuing lamp, chorizo sausage & beef for our lunch.
    Salads to accompany our barbecue. The yellow penguins contain wine, of course.
    Ended with a float trip on the Limay River with a snack at the end.

    Busy day, late night & early morning to come. Tomorrow, we’ll travel 8 to 10 hours overland into Chile. We cross the border from Argentina into Chile, & will have our passports stamped which can take a few hours, hence the long travel time by bus. Fortunately, a big bus for the 14 of us to spread out.

    I am having a blast. Lots of adventures & many laughs.

    Until next time. Going to get even more remote.

    November 15, 2025

  • News for Buenos Aires

    Arrived in this very beautiful big city on Monday. Buenos Aires is billed as the Paris of South America, and I think it lives up to its reputation. I have certainly enjoyed this visit a great deal more than I did in January when I walked around on two broken ankles. I learned lots, saw many sights, & enjoyed some outstanding food. Tomorrow it’s back to the domestic airport to fly to Bariloche which is a lakeside City nestled in the foothills of the Andes & what I would consider the beginning of our Patagonian adventure.

    Obelisk commemorating the modern era of Buenos Aires, built in 1936 on Avenue 9th of July. We are staying just off of this Avenue right in the heart of the City.
    Face of Eva Peron illuminated on this building. Eva mostly revered in Argentina because she championed the rights of the common man. She was also instrumental in the suffrage movement. Women “earned” the right to vote in 1951.
    Plaza de Mayo, the main square of the City.
    Mariano Corbacho who spoke to us about the years of the dictatorship in Argentina; 1976 to 1983. Mariano made a film which spoke of his grandfather Pico’s role in the terror of the years. Talk about a conflicted young man.
    Typical La Boca painted building. La Boca first port of Buenos Aires.
    La Boca alley.
    La Boca where I purchased a hand drawn shirt & wrap made of cotton & silk.
    1976 revolution took 30,000 lives, many women & children. Pregnant women disappeared, hence 500 babies. These are the grandmothers keeping their grandchildren alive with this mural.

    Visited El Ateneo Splendid. It was once a theatre but now houses thousands of books, albums, CD’s, etc. Quite a sight to behold.

    Each loge is a reading nook.

    Tango lesson in the bar area of the hotel. We all participated, but not quite at this level.
    Buenas Aires night view from the pier.

    Calatrava Women’s Bridge. Calatrava: Famous Spanish architect. Evening stroll after dinner on the pier.

    Crypts of Cemetery of Recoleta which was created in 1822. Hundreds of burials here. Awe inspiring spot.
    Crypt in Cemetery of Recoleta located in heart of Buenos Aires.
    Crypt of Durante Family where Eva Durante Peron is buried.
    Drawing of how this refurbished crypt will look. Above ground crypt with two floors down. Room for 12 bodies on each floor. Yes, wealthy Argentinians still want to be buried.
    Typical life on the Tigre Delta where 3000 people live on the island. Commute to Buenos Aires in row boats or a public boat. Boat ride for us to experience one of Latin America’s most unique environments.
    Beautiful heron enjoying the vegetation of the Delta.
    Visited the Teatro Colon, one of the most beautiful opera houses in the world. English & Spanish tours sold out, so I took the Portuguese tour. No problem, Google translate was suppose to help. I eventually said, “Not worth the effort. Just enjoy the beauty.”
    Stained glass dome of the Teatro Colon.
    Preparing for a gala in this beautiful room of the opera house,
    The Teatro Colon can accommodate approximately 2500 guests.
    Getting ready for a performance Friday night. Note artwork above stage.
    My box seat mate.

    Hope to be able to share more experiences in the days ahead when we put the City behind us & get truly into nature.

    November 12, 2025

  • Chile & Argentina: Andes to Patagonia w/Pre trip to Easter Island (RAPA Nui)

    November 3 to November 27, 2025

    Began this 3 week trip with a stop in Santiago. Spent 2 full days in the largest city in Chile enjoying the sights, including a winery tour, before making our way to Easter Island which the native people prefer to call RAPA Nui. Getting to Easter Island requires a five hour plane ride as it is 2500 miles from Santiago. Latam Airlines is the only means of transportation from Chile to Easter Island unless one goes 2500 miles by boat. Going to be covering a good deal of ground on this trip which in total requires 9 flights and several long bus rides.

    Now on to just a few pictures from Santiago, and then on to Easter Island,

    Began trip in Santiago. Then on to Easter Island. Fly to Buenos Aires. Then make our way to Bariloche to begin the Patagonia trip.
    Central Market in Santiago with many shops of local origin. Six stories of shops plus plenty of gardens on each floor. I ventured here my first afternoon so I wouldn’t be tempted to sleep after the long traveling day.
    One example of public art in Old Town Santiago.
    Pretty square in Old Town Santiago. Local guide led us on a walking tour of the old town where we learned about the turbulent history of Chile’s quest to become a democracy.
    Church of San Francisco in the old town of Santiago which dates from the 1600’s. It is the only structure still remaining from that time because it was constructed of limestone, sand & egg white. The egg white created the bonding agent. Really quite a beautiful church. Chile at one time was mostly Catholic, but as in many countries, the number has declined significantly over the years.
    Visited the Cousino- Macul Winery. Tasted five different wines which were most generous pours. Had to finally ask for half of what our guide was offering. Excellent Chilean wines, and a great story about the 7 generations who have owned and operated the winery.
    The barrel room of the Cousino Winery.
    Rode the gondola to visit a religious sight, St Christopher Hill. The 14 stations of the cross were all painted by local artists.
    View of Santiago from St Christopher Hill.
    Jill & I being silly at the end of our tour to St. Christopher Hill.
    Welcome to Easter Island. Hello, good morning, good evening; a most useful RAPA Nui expression.
    Lobby of Taha Tai, our home for three nights while visiting Easter Island. Polynesian setting on the Pacific Ocean.
    Our first visit to see the world famous Moai which date from most likely the 5th or 6th century. A total of 887 stone statues have been inventoried on the island & in museums.
    Top knots at Puna Pau. These massive stones were placed on the heads of the Moai after being carved and moved/walked onto the Ahu (platform).
    Maui with top knot.
    Martin, our local guide & a RAPA Nui, telling us about the chicken coup. Chickens were brought to the Island by the first settlers & still abound today. Martin is so passionate about his heritage & full of absolutely wonderful oral history. So many stories. Squatting just as the RAPA Nui still sit today. OUCH.
    The Moai who never walked away from the quarry.
    These 15 Moai have been restored & placed here using a crane. The archeologists heading up the restoration had no intention of placing the top knot on the second Moai, but the RAPA Nui guarding the place at night claimed the spirits put it in place. The platform on which the 15 Moai are standing is called an ahu.
    One sandy beach on Easter Island. The rest of the coast line is rocky. My travel companions: Regina, Connie, Jill & Chris.
    New friends dipping toes into the cold Pacific Ocean.
    Fishing boats in for the night.
    RAPA Nui cultural dance.
    Face of a Moai looking up for enlightenment. Many of the Moai are no longer upright; in fact, most aren’t. Warring factions between the clans, pirating & erosion over the years are just some of the causes.
    Lunch on Saturday overlooking the ocean. Visited the home of the son of Henri, a Frenchman, who came to the Island with Jacques Cousteau for exploration. Married a RAPA Nui & his son is keeping his history alive. Lunch of freshly caught tuna, shrimp, hearts of palm, salad & small quiche. So delicious.
    The ocean from one of our local dinner spots.
    Beer brewed on Island. Mahina means moon. Mild, but tasty.
    Vinapu. Our small group. Marta, our guide, in back with arm raised.
    Swimming pool at hotel on Easter Island: Taha Tai
    Sunset in RAPA Nui on our last night. Celebrated with a picnic: wine, charcuterie, fruits, wrap. So sad to leave this peaceful island in the middle of nowhere.

    Now back to Santiago for the night before leaving early for Buenos Aires on Monday morning. More to come if the internet allows.

    November 9, 2025

  • Last News From Poland

    Our last day and half were jammed packed with two great experiences. First, we visited the 700 year old Wieliczka Salt Mine; a must see. Yesterday, we traveled two hours out of Krakow to visit the resort town of Zakopane, a charming mountain village. Last night our farewell dinner which was bittersweet. As I have mentioned before, the 23 of us truly enjoyed one another’s company; a most compatible group. We had very little down time, so sleep was deep & restful, but now I need a vacation from my vacation.

    Salt sculpture from the Wieliczka Salt Mine, a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site. Mine over 700 years old, & one of oldest in Europe. Miners sculpted these statues during their free time. This was a favorite stop of mine.
    Wood foundation of the mine. Salt gray instead of white & used for preserving. The route of the tour took us through three levels of underground galleries & chambers.
    67 years to decorate the chamber. Largest underground chapel where about 25 weddings a year take place. Picture hardly does it justice.
    Salt sculpture of Last Supper which is on the wall of the Chapel. I selected just one sculpture of the many on the walls here to photograph.
    Pope John Paul sculpted by miners in 1997 after one of his three visits back to his homeland of Poland.
    Note beautiful chandelier, of which there are many in the salt mine.
    Canal & bridge on our way to the funicular in Zokopane.
    Village of Zakopane after leaving the funicular. Tatar Mountains, are small in comparison to the Canadian or Colorado Rocky Mountains, but certainly tranquil & beautiful.
    Riding the luge during our visit to Zakopane in the Tatra Mountains. Ophelia & I are training for the 2026 senior olympics. Ophelia was a true trooper to agree to do this ride with me.
    Traditional Highlander costume. Had to sneak this picture. He wanted payment for his modeling, & a credit card wouldn’t do.. Zolty, Polish money, was hardly necessary to have as used a credit card for most everything. To make it easy, figured 4 Zolty to the $ when converting.
    Zakopane cheese with cranberry jam & a local beer. Then a potato pancake with cold slaw & shredded beets. Traditional Highlander fare.
    Seeing the Tatar Mountains when heading back to Krakow.
    Anna, with another one of her stories. Just finished lunch & leaving the Tatra Mountain region, heading back to Krakow.
    Fun to see young people carrying on the traditions even though they are not brimming with enthusiasm. Performance during our farewell dinner.

    Traveling has become for me the ultimate traveling experience. These past 13 days have just confirmed for me the parallels of what the Polish people endured under an autocratic regime & what we are seeing in our country today.

    • Autocratic/dictatorial President.
    • Yes Men in government.
    • Suppression of the press.
    • Propaganda in the form of lies.
    • Prejudice of anyone who is different.
    • The outcast of the so called Undesirables.
    • Dictating what is taught/learned in our schools.
    • The end of FREE SPEECH.

    ”Those who do not remember the past are condemned to repeat it.” George Santayana

    Until my next adventure, I am signing off. Again, thank you for traveling with me.

    September 23, 2025

  • Last Days in Poland

    Our learning trip to Poland is soon coming to an end. We reached my favorite city, Krakow, on Saturday night, and have been on the run ever since. Aside from visiting Auschwitz Birkenau, the trip has been a blast. Our weather cooperated, so our experiences have been comfortable, educational & authentic. Again, just a few pictures from each stop,

    Gnome winners. Wayne was the big winner with 69 spottings. Prizes of chocolate & vodka. All was shared on the bus. Joan, Dawn, Melinda, Judy, Christine & Wayne.
    Entrance gate to Auschwitz. The inscription reads: Arbeit Macht Frei. (Work will make you free.)
    Auschwitz with barbed wire keeping the prisoners caged. Once inside, this visit became more of a museum with many displays: Hair from female victims, shoes taken from victims, hats taken from victims, suitcases taken from victims, etc. The stories touch the heart.
    Detail of roll-call square. Roll call, which often lasted several hours, was one of the torments of camp life. Image the discomfort in the heat of summer or cold of winter.
    Guard house at Auschwitz.
    Main sites: Ghettos, transit camps & prisons from where the Jews & prisoners of other nationalities were deported to Auschwitz which became the largest Nazi concentration camp. Nazi’s deported 1.3 million to Auschwitz: Jews, Poles, Roma (Gypsies), Soviet POW’s, Other Ethnic Groups. Over 1.1 million were exterminated, 90% Jewish.
    Crematorium furnace. Over 4500 corpses a day could be burned in the five crematoriums in Auschwitz & Birkenau.

    Enough of this horror. Now photos from Krakow.

    Lonely Chairs Memorial which commemorates the deportation of Jews during WW2. Over 90% of Polish Jews lost their lives during the reign of Hitler.
    Town Hall Tower in Krakow; not a church! My favorite city in Poland was, in fact, not destroyed in the war as the Germans thought they would win the war & make Krakow their provincial capital.
    Old Town Market Square in Krakow, with the ubiquitous horse & carriage rides.
    Chicago jazz & blues in Krakow.
    Most important church in Poland, Wawel Cathedral. More than 150 churches in Krakow.
    According to our guide, Darius, this is the most beautiful street in Krakow; however, most women don’t enjoy it because there are no shops. Architecture is what makes it beautiful.
    Coffee & potty stop during walking tour of the Krakow square. We were dubbed the Sex in the City girls: Miranda, Carrie, Samantha, Charlotte.

    Going to send this post on its way, & write of my last days in Poland at the airport tomorrow. I’m doing this on the bus, & we are just about back to the hotel from another fun excursion.

    September 22, 2025

  • News from Wroclaw

    Going to work fast this morning before our departure for Auschwitz Birkenau Concentration camp. We’ve certainly been on the move, again seeing & learning. I’ll tell you about some of my experiences through pictures.

    Anna & Robert taught us the Polish National Dance during a rest stop on our way to Wroclaw.
    Monument to Pope John Paul in Poznan. Pope John Paul highly revered in Poland as he was of Polish descent, & worked diligently for Polish independence.
    Basilica of St Peter & Paul in Pozan. One of many churches we have visited in the last two days.
    Iconic Poznan Town Hall. We, of course, arrived just before noon, so we could see two goats appear above the clock & nod to one another as a trumpeter played on the top balcony. The plaza below was jammed with school children & other tourists.
    Poznan in the medieval city center square.
    Anna pouring grass vodka with an apple juice accompaniment . Traveling this pm for two hours by bus, so treats aplenty.
    Pork Schnitzel & potato salad with an original Czech Budweiser beer. Portions large at every meal. Many times a lot left on the plate. A taste of everything does suffice. The Polish love to eat. Probably because of the lines to get food, & then the lack of it during Communist times.
    Wroclaw is known as the gnome city. So Anna suggested a game. The person who could photograph the most gnomes would win the prize. So we set out after dinner to venture to the city center to hunt for the gnomes. This one was my favorite. Not sure who won the prize yet, but Melinda photographed over 30 different ones.
    Square in Wroclaw Thursday night after dinner. Hunting gnomes.
    Visit to the Boleslawiec pottery factory where we learned how the signature blue & white stoneware, using a cobalt oxide glaze, is made. This woman is cleaning the bowl after the clay was spun. You can see cups she has on her shelf of the traditional blue pottery.
    After firing, the artisan paints the design. Delicate, but I would think, rather monotonous work.
    The painted design is then dipped in a wash. The design appears to disappear, but not really.
    Finished product after the cobalt oxide glaze is applied. Another gift from Anna after this visit, a key chain.
    Church of Peace in Jawor. Famous altar.
    Another Church of Peace & another UNESCO World Heritage Sire this one in the village of Swidnica. Very ornate altar decorated in bible scenes.
    Dinner here tonight before heading back to Wroclaw: Meatball soup, pate & duck with traditional apple cake for dessert. Most always have wine provided with dinner. We enjoy eating with other travelers from our group as the conversations are always interesting. Tonight it was Mirsa & Orlando from Puerto Rico.

    Today will be a difficult day!!!

    September 20, 2025

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